A Lazy Day in the Marais

Ordinarily, one might not equate the term ‘lazy’ with the bustling Marais, which is known for its happening nightlife, hip clubs, au courant boutiques and – yes – hordes of tourists. But I was determined to retain my inner-Parisian-peace even in this lively hot spot, so I set off in the morning with a plan to meander my way through the lovely streets and alleyways and find a quieter side of the Marais.

I’ll admit, the ambiance of my hotel helped start my lazy Marais day off on exactly the right note; despite the noise of the neighborhood, my stately, ancient hotel walls worked better than noise-canceling headphones at blocking out the buzz from below, and the romantic, antique décor of the hotel transported me back to simpler days. I awoke to the literal sound of birds chirping, and I started my morning by sitting at my spindly antique desk and staring dreamily out of my window into a quiet and charming courtyard. I’d highly recommend the Caron de Beaumarchais hotel for any Parisian visitor with an old soul; the hotel reeks of old-fashioned elegance – and it’s clean and affordable to boot!

After my leisurely window-watching, I emerged from the peace and quiet of my hotel onto the (admittedly) quite packed streets of the Marais. I bravely pushed my way through the crowds until I made it to Aux Merveilleux de Fred, a local bakery famous for its meringues and (I hoped) buttery croissants – my favorite Parisian breakfast. And success! Not only did I purchase a perfect croissant fresh from the oven, I snagged three gorgeous meringues that were basically art forms in their own right. Nothing serves as armor against the crowds quite like a morning sugar rush 😊

I decided to head for quieter waters (literally) after the bakery – but on my way to the Seine, I passed by 12 Rue des Barres to check out one of Paris’ last standing half-timbered houses. Very neat to see in person – and I was surprised to discover that the house now serves as a youth hostel! The Mije Marais hostel could be an ideal option for any budget travelers looking to literally wrap themselves in Paris’ rich history when they lay their heads down to sleep at night.

Finally, I made it to my destination – the banks of the Seine. Just off Rue de Pont Louis-Philippe, you’ll find a quiet alcove complete with lounger chairs artfully facing the river. This spot was a haven from the hustle and bustle of the Marais, and I happily settled into my lounger to enjoy my croissant and, ok, one of the meringues I had sworn I’d save till later. Even after finishing my petit dejeuner, the spot was so peaceful that I decided to stay for awhile, alternating between reading my book, watching Parisians stroll by, and waving at folks sailing down the Seine on the bateaux mouches. 

As the sun inched higher into the sky, I decided it was time to leave my refuge and venture back into the Marais. But I wouldn’t have to brave the crowds for long – my next stop was Saint Gervais church, an oft-overlooked treasure in the heart of the neighborhood. While the façade of the church is impressive with its combination of Gothic and French Baroque architecture, it’s the interior that’s truly stunning, with rows upon rows of gorgeous stained glass windows. Even better – the church is rarely crowded, and it can provide a cool respite from the heat and crowds.

After the church, it was time to do what one does best on a lazy day – wander and see where my feet would take me! I ambled by the majestic Hotel de Ville, up past the BHV dept store (I did take a quick peek inside – the purses on the bottom floor were calling out to me!) and then headed on to check out the quirky architecture of the modern art museum, Centre Pompidou.

Then it was time for another hidden oasis in the Marais – the Anne Frank garden. After kicking back and allowing myself some more reading time (lazy day, after all), my stomach started to rumble and I knew it was time for my very favorite Marais activity – eating falafel!

Falafel is my favorite food of all time, and there’s no better place for falafel than the Marais. With 4-5 falafel shops clustered around the Rue de Rosiers, all in a fierce competition to provide the most authentic falafels with the freshest ingredients, the Marais is a dream for falafel connoisseurs such as myself. Now, here’s a secret about Marais falafel: while L’As du Falafel is the most famous shop by far – and its lines reflect this – I actually think Chez Hanna down the block has better falafel. And, instead of waiting in line for up to an hour, you can get your falafel immediately from Chez Hanna.  

I had a fun conversation with the Chez Hanna server, who must not have been used to her customers being able to speak any French beyond the basis. It went something like this:

Me: Bonjour!

Her: Bonjour! Comment allez-vous? (How are you?)

Me: Tres bien, et vous? (Very well, how are you?)

Her: [mouth drops open] Vous parlez francais?? (You speak French??)

I thought this was funny, since she HAD asked me a question in French – wasn’t it only natural I responded in kind? We both ended up laughing, and she explained that she was most used to tourists understanding a little bit of French, but only ever being able to respond in English. My fully formed French sentence was a surprise for her. (This proves the point that the Marais attracts a LOT of tourists. When I stay in some of my other preferred locations in Paris, like Montparnasse, being able to speak French is more of a given, and English is what catches the locals off guard.)

I then took my falafel and headed off towards the Place des Vosges, a stately garden surrounded by impressive mansions (including one that used to be inhabited by Victor Hugo!) The Place Des Vosges was a lovely spot to relax, people watch, and enjoy my savory falafel in peace.  

The rest of the day was more of the same – alternating between wandering the busy streets of the Marais, ducking into secret gardens for reading/people-watching breaks, and checking out many of the numerous old bookshops sprinkled throughout the quarter. (Hot tip: La Mouette Rieuse has a section with English books AND really cute Parisian-themed souvenirs that are less tacky than some of the souvenirs I’ve seen at shops near the main tourist sites).

I ended the night at the Little Red Door, a so-called “secret” speakeasy in the western part of the quarter. Known for its art-inspired cocktails – with all ingredients sourced locally – and it’s lowly-lit, elegant décor, sipping on a craft cocktail while enjoying the mysterious ambiance was the perfect way to end my lazy day in the Marais.

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