While many first-time visitors prefer the hustle and bustle of the Marais or the luxurious feel of Saint-Germain, the 5th arrondissement holds a special place in my heart. From the cool breezes blowing off the banks of the Seine and the quiet peacefulness of the Luxembourg Gardens, to the local feel of the centuries-old market streets and the student-centric neighborhoods near La Sorbonne, the 5th has something for everyone. Walking along its cobblestoned streets, one can truly capture the magic of the vrais Paris.
Today, I planned to wander those very streets, soaking in the sights and sounds of a real Paris neighborhood. I left my hotel bright and early, and was lured into an unassuming local boulangerie by the captivating smell of flour, bread and BUTTER.
I broke the French-tradition of always lingering over one’s meal by ordering a warm croissant and hot tea to go – but I would redeem myself by taking my feast to the enchanting Luxembourg Gardens and planting myself firmly on one of the many lounger chairs scattered throughout the park. I was ready to slow down, enjoy my petite dejeuner, and relax in the park in true Parisian fashion.
The Luxembourg Gardens is one of my favorite spots in the city. A calm oasis from the crowds, once you step foot onto the meandering walkways and take in the lush greenery, you’re instantly transported to another place and time. A time when people were not meant to rush from one place to the next or to sit in an office all day, but instead to bask in the bright morning sunlight, enjoying their delicious croissants, striking up conversations with strangers, and soaking in the ambiance of the beautiful nature that surrounds them.
I spent a relaxing morning in the Gardens doing just that; long after I’d polished off my croissant and finished my tea, I sat in the park and people-watched, occasionally changing locations to explore the hidden paths and blooming flowers hidden behind every bend. There’s no better place to literally stop and smell the roses than the Luxembourg Gardens.
Alas, I eventually realized it was time to continue on with my day; I bid the Gardens adieu and set out for another one of my favorite places in the 5th – the Abbey Bookshop. Although Shakespeare & Company is the most famous English-language bookshop in Paris (and I’m not going to lie, it’s also extraordinary!) I prefer the Abbey Bookshop for its quiet location, lack of pretention, and – the best part – the fact that it is JAM-PACKED with books. It’s the kind of bookshop you can lose yourself in, and the lovely owner is always more than willing to help you navigate the maze of books that line the store’s shelves, tables, and floor until you find your perfect book-mate.
After a brief stroll along the Seine (whenever I’m this close to the river, I can’t resist it’s magical pull!), I decided to head further into the 5th by meandering along the charming Rue Mouffetard. Rue Mouffetard is brimming with cute boutiques, old bookstores, and other delightful temptations along the upper half of the street. Halfway down the street, you’ll eventually stumble upon Place de la Contrescarpe, one of the cutest, most quintessentially French squares in Paris. Today, a man was actually holding court near the fountain playing an accordion – I kid you not!
All of that window-shopping was making my stomach rumble, so I made my way towards the outer edge of the 5th, where the Rue Mouffetard is transformed into a delightfully French open market. Right before the marketplace, however, I was once again lured to a stop by the promise of another French delicacy – the perfect Parisian crepe. I stopped and waited in the short line for a Greek-style crepe from Au P’Tit Grec, which is known for its massive takeaway crepes stuffed full of fresh ingredients. Mine was made out of traditional crepe batter, mushrooms, olives, onions, tomatoes and lettuce – and was bursting with gooey, melted feta cheese.
Knowing I was about to consume this humongous cheese-crepe monster, I decided to get in a few more steps and walk my newfound crepe friend up to the Jardins des Plantes. One of the lesser known-gardens in Paris, the Jardins des Plantes has a beautiful rose garden, a lovely botanical garden, an alpine garden, and so much more. It was the perfect place to finish up my crepe and round out my day of exploring the 5th. Thank you for coming with!
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